A great jersey should look as fresh on its 20th wear as it did on unboxing. That means protecting the print, preserving color saturation, and keeping the fabric breathable. Here’s a practical, no-nonsense care guide for Jersey Crafted styles—whether you’re wearing mesh for game day or a heavier knit for night outs.
First Rule: Check the Care Label (Really)
Different builds = different rules. Always start with your garment’s label and any care card from Jersey Crafted. When in doubt, choose cold water, gentle cycle, mild detergent, air dry. Heat, harsh chemicals, and friction are the enemies of crisp numbers and loud colors.
Pre-Game: Sorting & Prep
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Sort by color & fabric. Wash brights with brights, darks with darks, and synthetics with synthetics.
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Close everything. Button jerseys, zip hoodies, and fasten Velcro on other items to avoid snags.
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Turn inside out. Minimizes abrasion directly on the print and keeps numbers sharp.
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Use a mesh laundry bag. Especially for embroidered/appliqué pieces and women’s-cut jerseys to prevent snagging and pilling.
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Spot treat first. See “Stain Playbook” below—treat before the wash, not after.
The Winning Wash Formula
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Water: Cold is king for color and print longevity.
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Cycle: Gentle or delicate; low spin to reduce stress on seams and transfers.
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Detergent: A mild, liquid detergent. Skip powders that can leave residue. Use the recommended amount—too much leaves film that dulls color.
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No fabric softener. It coats fibers, clogs performance mesh, and can weaken adhesive on transfers. If you love a softer hand, add ¼ cup white vinegar to the rinse instead—it rinses clean and cuts odor.
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No chlorine bleach. For brightness, use color-safe oxygen bleach (sodium percarbonate) only, and spot test first.
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Color catchers optional but helpful for brand-new brights.
Finish-Specific Care (So Your Details Stay Perfect)
Screen Print (plastisol or water-based):
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Inside out, cold water, gentle cycle.
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Air dry or tumble low. Avoid direct ironing on the graphic; if needed, press inside out with a pressing cloth.
DTF / Heat Transfer Vinyl:
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Most heat transfers dislike heat after production.
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Cold water, gentle cycle, air dry only for best life.
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If edges ever lift, don’t DIY with a household iron—contact support for guidance. Excess heat can gloss or warp the film.
Sublimation (usually on polyester):
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Color is in the fiber, not on top—very durable—but still wash cold to protect the fabric.
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Avoid chlorine bleach; it can yellow whites. Tumble low or air dry.
Embroidery / Tackle Twill / Appliqué:
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Mesh bag, cold wash, low spin.
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Air dry flat or on a wide hanger.
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If puckering appears, steam lightly from the inside (don’t over-press stitched areas).
Stain Playbook (Fast, Gentle, Effective)
Sweat & Odor:
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Pre-soak 30 minutes in cold water with a spoon of baking soda.
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Add vinegar to the rinse. Dry completely between wears to prevent bacteria buildup.
Oil & Food (wing night, anyone?):
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Dab—not rub—with a drop of dish soap directly on the spot. Wait 10 minutes, then cold wash.
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Repeat before drying; heat sets oil.
Grass & Dirt:
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Let mud dry fully, brush off, then pretreat with enzyme cleaner.
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For grass, try a small amount of rubbing alcohol on a cotton swab (spot test), then launder cold.
Blood & Protein Stains:
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Rinse cold immediately, pretreat with enzyme cleaner, wash cold. Never hot water first—it cooks the protein.
Sunscreen & Deodorant Marks:
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Many sunscreens contain oils and avobenzone that discolor fabric. Treat like oil: dish soap first, then launder.
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For white deodorant streaks, wipe with a damp microfiber cloth + a tiny bit of mild detergent before washing.
Ink/Marker:
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Dab (don’t flood) with isopropyl alcohol on the back of the stain over a paper towel. Rinse, then wash cold. Always spot test.
Important: Don’t put a stained jersey in the dryer until the stain is gone—heat makes it permanent.
Drying & De-Wrinkling (Heat Is the Boss Fight)
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Air dry whenever possible: hang on a wide hanger or lay flat on a rack. Keep out of direct sun to prevent fade.
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If you must machine dry, choose tumble low and remove while slightly damp to finish air drying.
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Steam > iron. Steam inside out to release wrinkles. If using an iron, go low heat, inside out, with a pressing cloth—never touch prints or transfers directly.
Storage & Travel
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Hang on wide, smooth hangers to keep shoulder shape; avoid wire.
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For long-term storage, fold with acid-free tissue between printed panels so graphics don’t stick to each other.
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Use breathable garment bags (cotton), not plastic, to avoid trapped moisture and odors.
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Traveling? Roll the jersey with a sheet of tissue or pack in a garment folder. A mini steamer is your best friend at the hotel.
Avoid These Rookie Mistakes
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High-heat dryers, hot water, or irons directly on prints.
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Fabric softener on performance fabrics or transfer prints.
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Overloading the washer, which ramps up friction and creasing.
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Washing with rough items (unzipped hoodies, denim with metal hardware, Velcro).
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Leaving sweaty jerseys in a gym bag or trunk—wash promptly to prevent odor set-in and bacterial damage.
Quick Checklist (Screenshot This)
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Turn inside out, zip/fasten, mesh bag if needed.
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Cold water, gentle cycle, mild liquid detergent.
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No softener or chlorine bleach; oxygen bleach only if tested.
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Air dry (best) or tumble low and remove damp.
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Steam inside out; never iron directly on graphics.
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Store on wide hangers; keep sun and heat away.
Follow these steps and your numbers stay crisp, colors stay loud, and fabric stays comfy—season after season, photo after photo.
When to Call in Backup
If you notice lifting edges on a transfer, unusual color bleed, or a stubborn stain after multiple gentle treatments, pause and reach out. Share a quick photo with the issue and the jersey’s order info; the Jersey Crafted team can advise the safest next move so you don’t accidentally worsen the problem.
Further Reading: Building looks for the whole crew? See From One to Many: Coordinating Couple Jerseys with Family & Friends
